How to Refinish Hardwood Floors

How to Refinish Hardwood Floors: Key Insights

• Solid hardwood can typically be refinished 5 to 7 times over its lifespan; engineered hardwood with a veneer thinner than 2 mm should not be sanded at all.
• A screen and recoat is faster and cheaper than a full refinish, but it cannot change the stain colour or address scratches that go through to the wood.
• Oak and other high-tannin species can react with water-based polyurethane and turn greenish: apply a sealer coat first to prevent this.
• Full cure takes up to 2 weeks regardless of when the floor feels dry underfoot; replacing rugs or furniture too soon is one of the most common mistakes after refinishing.
• Dustless refinishing costs more per square foot but prevents fine sanding dust from spreading through HVAC systems and adjacent rooms, making it worth considering in occupied homes.

In this guide, you'll read about:

1. Can Your Floor Be Refinished?
2. How to Refinish Hardwood Floors: An Overview
3. How to Refinish Wood Floors Step by Step
4. Restaining Hardwood Floors
5. Refinishing Timber Floors vs. Screen and Recoat
6. How Much Does It Cost to Refinish Hardwood Floors?
7. DIY vs. Hiring a Pro
8. How to Find a Flooring Pro on HomeStars
9. FAQs

Can Your Floor Be Refinished?

Not every wood floor is a candidate for full refinishing. The answer depends primarily on what type of floor you have and how much wear layer is left.

Solid hardwood

Solid hardwood, typically 3/4 inch thick, can be sanded and refinished multiple times over its lifespan. The practical limit is around 5 to 7 refinishes before the wood becomes too thin to sand safely. To check how many sands are left, look at the floor edge near a vent register or baseboard: if there is at least 1/8 inch of wood above the tongue-and-groove joint, another refinish is possible.

Engineered hardwood

Engineered hardwood has a thin veneer of real wood bonded over a plywood core. The veneer is typically 1 to 6 mm thick. Floors with a veneer thinner than 2 mm should not be sanded; a screen-and-recoat (see below) is the safer option. Floors with a thicker veneer can usually be refinished once or twice, but the margin for error is smaller than with solid wood.

Floors that cannot be refinished

Laminate, vinyl, and factory-finished floors with an aluminum oxide coating cannot be sanded. Attempting to do so will damage the surface permanently. If you are unsure which type of flooring you have, check at the edge of a floor register or along a transition strip where the end grain is visible.

How to Refinish Hardwood Floors: An Overview

Full refinishing involves three main stages: sanding the floor down to bare wood, applying stain if a colour change is wanted, and sealing with a protective topcoat. The work is dusty, physically demanding, and unforgiving of mistakes. A drum sander used incorrectly can gouge a floor permanently in seconds.

The timeline for a standard room runs roughly two to three days when accounting for sanding, drying time between coats, and final cure. Furniture cannot return to the room until the finish has fully cured, which takes anywhere from 3 days for water-based products to up to 2 weeks for oil-based polyurethane.

For a broader look at flooring options and costs, see our types of flooring guide.

How to Refinish Wood Floors Step by Step

Refinishing a hardwood floor follows the same sequence whether you hire a pro or take it on yourself. Each step builds on the last, and skipping or rushing any one of them shows in the final result.

Before you start

The following tools and materials are necessary to ensure a quality finish as well as your own safety:

Tools

• Drum sander or square-buff/orbital sander (for the main floor area)
• Edger (for perimeter and tight areas)
• Hand scraper or detail sander (for corners)
• Shop vacuum
• Tack cloths
• Paintbrushes and a T-bar or pad applicator (for finish coats)
• Hammer and nail punch

Materials

• Sandpaper in multiple grits (36- or 40-grit, 60-grit, 80- or 100-grit, 220-grit for between finish coats)
• Colour-matched wood filler
• Wood stain (if restaining)
• Polyurethane finish (water-based or oil-based)
• Plastic sheeting (to seal doorways and cover vents)
• Respirator or dust mask
• Safety goggles
• Ear protection
• Knee pads

Step 1: Prepare the room

Remove all furniture, rugs, and floor registers. Seal doorways with plastic sheeting to contain dust, and cover any HVAC vents. Check for protruding nails and set them below the surface with a hammer and nail punch: a raised nail will tear sandpaper and damage a rental drum sander instantly.

Step 2: Sand the floor

Sanding is the most technical part of the process. A drum sander handles the main field; an edger takes care of the perimeter; a hand scraper or detail sander clears corners. The sequence runs from coarser grit to finer:

• First pass: 36- or 40-grit to strip the old finish and level the surface
• Second pass: 60-grit to remove the scratches left by the first pass
• Third pass: 80- or 100-grit to smooth the surface before finishing

Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Moving against the grain leaves cross-grain scratches that are difficult to remove and highly visible once the finish is applied. After each pass, vacuum thoroughly and tack the floor with a dry cloth before moving to the next grit.

Note: Drum sanders are powerful equipment. If you have not used one before, consider renting a square-buff or orbital sander instead. These work more slowly but are significantly less likely to cause permanent damage.

Step 3: Address repairs

Once the floor is sanded to bare wood, fill any cracks, gaps, or deep scratches with a colour-matched wood filler. Use a flexible filler rather than a rigid epoxy product: wood moves seasonally, and a rigid fill will crack out over time.

Step 4: Apply stain (optional)

If you are restaining hardwood floors to change the colour or refresh the tone, apply stain now while the wood is bare and open. See the restaining section below for detail on this step.

Step 5: Apply the finish

Two to three coats of finish are standard. After the first coat dries, lightly sand with 220-grit paper or a screen pad to knock down any grain raise, vacuum and tack the floor, then apply the second coat. Repeat between the second and third coats if needed.

The two main finish options are:

• Water-based polyurethane: dries clear, lower odour, faster recoat time (2 to 4 hours between coats), less yellowing over time. Generally the better choice for light-coloured or grey-toned floors.
• Oil-based polyurethane: dries amber, stronger odour, longer recoat time (8 to 24 hours), more durable under heavy traffic. The slower dry time allows more working time for a smoother application.

Step 6: Cure and reinstall

Foot traffic is typically safe after 24 hours with water-based finishes and 48 to 72 hours with oil-based. Full cure, however, takes longer. Avoid replacing rugs or furniture for at least 2 weeks, and do not clean with anything wet during the cure period.

Note: Sanding generates significant fine dust and, depending on the finish you use, strong fumes. Wear a respirator rather than a basic dust mask for the sanding steps, and switch to a respirator rated for organic vapours when applying oil-based products. Keep the work area ventilated throughout.

Restaining Hardwood Floors

Restaining lets you change the colour of your floors at the same time as refinishing. Going darker is straightforward: apply a darker stain to the bare sanded wood, let it penetrate, then topcoat as usual. Going lighter is more complex because it requires a more thorough sand to remove the existing colour, and some species (particularly oak) may require a wood bleach treatment to achieve a truly light result.

A few things to know before committing to restaining:

• Test first. Apply the stain to a small inconspicuous area, let it dry fully, and assess the colour before doing the whole floor. Stain looks different wet versus dry, and the species affects the result.
• Tannin reaction. Oak and some other species have high tannin content that can react with water-based polyurethane, causing a blueish or greenish tint. Applying a sealer coat before the finish prevents this.
• Grain filler. Open-grained species like oak and ash benefit from a grain filler between the stain and topcoat to create a smoother finish surface.
• Consistency matters. Uneven stain application is very visible once the finish is on. Work in small sections of 3 to 4 square feet, apply stain with the grain, and wipe back excess with a clean rag before it sets.

Find a flooring pro on HomeStars

Refinishing Timber Floors vs. Screen and Recoat

Full refinishing is not always necessary. A screen and recoat, sometimes called a buff and recoat, is a lighter process that removes only the top finish layer rather than sanding down to bare wood. It is appropriate when the finish is dull, lightly scratched, or worn but the wood itself is intact.

• Full refinishing strips the floor back to bare wood, allows stain colour changes, and addresses deep scratches. Expect 2 to 4 days of disruption including drying time.

• Screen and recoat abrades only the top finish layer without reaching bare wood. It cannot change the stain colour or fix deep scratches, and can usually be completed in a single day.

Note: Screen and recoat is not suitable for floors that have been waxed, floors finished with certain factory coatings (such as aluminum oxide), or floors with structural damage. When in doubt, a flooring contractor can assess the floor and recommend the right approach.

How Much Does It Cost to Refinish Hardwood Floors?

The cost of refinishing hardwood floors varies depending on the method, the condition of the floor, and where you are in Canada. Here is what most homeowners can expect to pay:

• Professional hardwood floor refinishing typically runs $3 to $8 per square foot for a full sand, stain, and finish, based on current market rates.

• Screen and recoat typically costs $1 to $3 per square foot.

• Dustless refinishing, which uses specialized vacuum attachments to capture sanding dust, generally falls in the $6 to $11 per square foot range.

For a broader comparison of floor refinishing options, including other floor types, visit the floor refinishing cost guide.

What affects the price

Several variables push a refinishing quote up or down:

• Floor size and layout: Open-plan spaces are more efficient to sand and finish than rooms with many transitions, closets, or irregular angles.
• Wood species: Dense or hard species like maple require more passes and more time than softer species like pine or fir.
• Floor condition: Deep scratches, previous paint, multiple old finish layers, or water damage all add sanding time.
• Stain: Adding a colour change typically adds $1 to $3 per square foot to the overall cost.
• Method: Dustless refinishing costs more but is worth considering in occupied homes or condos where dust containment is a priority.
• Region: Labour rates are higher in major urban centres, particularly Vancouver and the GTA.
• Stairs: Priced per step rather than by area. Expect to pay $15 to $40 per step depending on the stair profile and whether nosings and risers are included.
• DIY: Equipment rental runs $60 to $120 per day for a drum sander and edger combined, plus sandpaper, stain, and finish. Materials for a 500-square-foot room typically run $300 to $600 excluding rental.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

Refinishing hardwood floors is a project that sits at the boundary between intermediate DIY and work best left to pros. The sanding stage in particular carries a real risk of permanent damage.

When DIY is a reasonable option

• You have solid hardwood (not engineered) with enough wear layer remaining
• The floor layout is simple, with large open areas
• You are not changing the stain colour
• You are comfortable operating power equipment and can rent a square-buff or orbital sander rather than a drum sander

When to hire a flooring contractor

• The floor has engineered veneer, cupping, crowning, or structural issues
• You are restaining and want a consistent colour result
• The layout is complex (many doorways, stairs, small rooms)
• The floor needs board replacement or repair alongside refinishing
• You need the work done within a specific timeline

Compare flooring pros on HomeStars

How to Find a Flooring Pro on HomeStars

Finding the right pro for hardwood floor refinishing takes more than a quick search. You want someone who can assess your floor type, recommend the right method, and give you a clear quote before work starts. Browse flooring contractors near you on HomeStars to read reviews from Canadian homeowners, compare pros in your area, and connect directly with someone who is available for your project. Post your project for free and get responses from flooring pros near you.

Post your refinishing project on HomeStars

Common Questions About Refinishing Hardwood Floors

How do you know when hardwood floors need refinishing vs. replacing?

The general rule is: if the wood is structurally sound, refinishing is the better choice. Signs that refinishing is sufficient include surface scratches that do not go through to the wood, dullness, minor staining, or faded finish in high-traffic areas. Replacement becomes necessary when boards are cracked, warped, cupped, or so thin from repeated sanding that no wear layer remains. A flooring contractor can check the wear layer depth at a floor register to give you a definitive answer.

How long does hardwood floor refinishing take?

A single room typically takes 2 to 3 days from start to a walkable surface, but that does not mean the work is done. Water-based polyurethane is ready for light foot traffic in 24 hours; oil-based takes 48 to 72 hours. Full cure, meaning the floor is ready for rugs and furniture, takes 1 to 2 weeks depending on the product. Pros typically complete the sanding and finish application on one room in a day, with drying time between coats adding to the overall schedule.

Can you change the colour of hardwood floors without replacing them?

Yes, restaining hardwood floors during refinishing is a straightforward way to change the colour. Going darker is easier: apply a stain to the bare sanded wood before topcoating. Going lighter requires a more thorough sand and, in some cases, a bleaching step, particularly for darker-toned species. The result depends on the wood species and the existing colour, so testing on a small hidden area before committing to the whole floor is strongly recommended.

Is dustless refinishing worth the extra cost?

For most homes, yes. Conventional sanding generates a significant amount of fine dust that settles across the entire house, including HVAC systems and adjacent rooms. Dustless refinishing uses vacuum-equipped sanding machines to capture the majority of dust at the source. The premium of $1 to $3 per square foot over standard refinishing is usually worth it in occupied homes, condos with shared ventilation, and homes where people have allergies or respiratory concerns. HomeStars has flooring pros who offer dustless refinishing across Canada, and you can filter by service type when browsing profiles.

How often do hardwood floors need to be refinished?

Most solid hardwood floors need a full refinish every 7 to 10 years under normal residential use. High-traffic areas, homes with pets, and floors that are not regularly maintained may need attention sooner. A screen and recoat every 3 to 5 years can extend the intervals between full refinishes by refreshing the topcoat before it wears through to the wood. The actual frequency depends on the finish type, the wood species, and how consistently the floor is cleaned and protected.

What is the difference between refinishing and resurfacing hardwood floors?

The terms are often used interchangeably, but there is a distinction. Refinishing refers specifically to sanding the floor down to bare wood and applying a new stain and topcoat. Resurfacing is sometimes used more broadly to include processes that do not sand to bare wood, such as a screen and recoat or a buff and recoat. If a contractor uses the word resurfacing, it is worth confirming exactly what the process involves and whether it includes sanding to bare wood or only a light abrasion of the existing finish.

Can I stay in my home while my floors are being refinished?

It depends on the method and the products used. Oil-based finishes produce strong fumes that make most of the home uncomfortable or inadvisable to occupy during application and for at least 24 hours afterward. Water-based finishes have significantly lower odour and VOC output, making it more practical to stay in an adjacent part of the home. Either way, the room being refinished must be completely cleared and off-limits during the work and drying period. Your flooring pro can advise on ventilation requirements and realistic timelines for reoccupying the space.