What Is LVP Flooring?

In this guide, you'll read about:

1. What Is LVP Flooring? An Overview
2. LVP Core Types: SPC vs. WPC
3. Where to Use LVP Flooring
4. LVP Flooring Compared to Laminate
5. How to Install LVP Flooring
6. How Much Does LVP Flooring Cost?
7. Vinyl Plank Flooring Maintenance and Cleaning
8. Find a Flooring Pro on HomeStars
9. Frequently Asked Questions

What Is LVP Flooring? An Overview

What sets LVP flooring apart comes down to its construction. Each plank is made up of several layers bonded together, which is what gives it durability, realism, and waterproofing in a single product.

Below is a table sharing pros and cons of LVP, followed by some technical information on the different components of LVP flooring.

Pros	Cons
Fully waterproof; suitable for kitchens, bathrooms, and basements	Cannot be refinished like hardwood if the wear layer is scratched through
More affordable than hardwood or engineered wood	Thinner wear layers (under 6 mil) show scratches and dents in high-traffic areas
Comfortable underfoot due to built-in underlayment on most products	Can feel hollow or sound loud underfoot without adequate underlayment
Resistant to stains, spills, and pet damage	Not biodegradable; difficult to recycle at end of life
DIY-friendly installation with click-lock systems	Glue-down installations are difficult to reverse without damaging the subfloor
Works over many existing floors without full removal	Sensitive to subfloor imperfections; bumps telegraph through the planks over time
Wide range of styles that convincingly mimic hardwood and stone	Does not add the same resale value as real hardwood

The layers of an LVP plank

• Wear layer: The topmost layer, made from clear PVC. This is the most important spec to check: 12 mil or thicker is the standard for residential use in high-traffic areas. The thicker this layer, the longer the floor lasts before the surface shows wear.
• Printed design layer: A high-resolution photographic film that replicates wood grain, texture, and colour variation. Modern printing technology makes it difficult to distinguish from real wood at a glance.
• Core layer: Either SPC (stone plastic composite) or WPC (wood plastic composite). This is what gives modern LVP its rigidity and stability. See the next section for the difference.
• Backing layer: The bottom layer, which provides stability, slight cushioning, and in many products a built-in underlayment for sound reduction.

Plank dimensions

LVP planks are typically 6 to 9 inches wide and 36 to 72 inches long, with an overall thickness ranging from 4 mm to 8 mm. Wider and longer planks tend to look more realistic and are better at concealing minor subfloor imperfections, but they also cost more per square foot.

Click-lock vs. glue-down

Most residential LVP uses a click-lock (floating) installation, where planks snap together and rest over the subfloor without adhesive. This makes installation faster and the floor easier to replace in sections. Glue-down LVP is bonded directly to the subfloor and is better suited to large open areas or commercial applications where dimensional stability under heavy loads is a priority.

Find a flooring pro near you on HomeStars

LVP Core Types: SPC vs. WPC

The core is what separates modern LVP from older vinyl sheet or peel-and-stick tile products. There are two main core technologies in use today.

SPC (stone plastic composite)

SPC cores are made from a mixture of limestone powder, PVC, and stabilizers. The result is a dense, rigid plank that resists denting under heavy furniture and holds up well under temperature swings. Because of its density, SPC is thinner overall for a given level of rigidity, which can make it feel slightly harder underfoot. It is generally the better choice for areas with significant temperature fluctuation.

WPC (wood plastic composite)

WPC cores use a foamed PVC and wood flour mixture, which makes the plank slightly thicker and softer underfoot. The added thickness also improves sound absorption. WPC is warmer and more comfortable for areas where you spend a lot of time standing, like kitchens. It is somewhat less resistant to heavy point loads than SPC.

Both core types are fully waterproof. The choice between them comes down to where the floor is going and what you prioritize: SPC for stability and resistance, WPC for comfort and a quieter underfoot feel.

Where to Use LVP Flooring

One of LVP's main advantages is how broadly it can be used across a home. Unlike hardwood, which struggles in moisture-prone areas, LVP works in virtually every room.

Kitchens and bathrooms

LVP is fully waterproof at the plank level. That said, a truly waterproof floor system also requires correct seam sealing and a waterproof backing, which is one reason professional installation matters in wet rooms. For kitchens and bathrooms, look for a product with a 12 mil or higher wear layer and confirm the backing is also rated as waterproof.

Basements

Basements present two challenges for flooring: moisture from below and temperature swings. LVP handles both better than hardwood or laminate. An SPC-core product is the most common recommendation for basements because of its dimensional stability. You should still address any active moisture issues in the slab before installation.

Living rooms, hallways, and bedrooms

LVP performs well in all above-grade living areas. Its scratch resistance makes it practical for households with pets or children. For bedrooms and quiet spaces, a WPC-core plank with a thicker pre-attached underlayment will reduce sound transmission better than a thinner SPC product.

Rooms where LVP is less suitable

LVP can fade with prolonged direct sunlight, so south-facing rooms with large unshaded windows need UV protection (window film or blinds) to maintain the colour over time. LVP also cannot be refinished when the wear layer is gone, the way hardwood can, so choosing a thick enough wear layer upfront is the only way to extend the floor's lifespan.

LVP Flooring Compared to Laminate

LVP is most often compared to laminate. Each has a different use case, price point, and set of trade-offs.

LVP sits between laminate and hardwood on most measures:

Laminate	LVP
Not waterproof	Fully waterproof
$1.50 to $8/sq ft materials	$3 to $7/sq ft materials
$2 to $6/sq ft labour	$1 to $2/sq ft labour
Lasts 10 to 20 years	Lasts 15 to 25 years
Cannot be refinished	Cannot be refinished
Limited use in basements	Suitable for basements

For a deeper look at how LVP and laminate compare on appearance, sound, and installation, see our guide to vinyl vs. laminate flooring.

Choosing the right flooring type for your space

If you are deciding between LVP and laminate or other options for a specific room, our overview of types of flooring covers the main categories and what each one is best suited for.

How to Install LVP Flooring

LVP installation is more approachable than hardwood or tile, but there are subfloor and acclimatization requirements that affect how the floor performs long term.

Subfloor preparation

The subfloor must be flat within 3/16 of an inch over 10 feet. Any high spots or dips beyond that will cause planks to flex, creak, or eventually separate at the joints. Concrete subfloors should be tested for moisture before installation; if moisture levels are high, a vapour barrier is required even though LVP itself is waterproof.

Acclimatization

Planks should sit in the room where they will be installed for at least 48 hours before installation begins. This allows the product to adjust to the room's temperature and humidity, which reduces the risk of gapping or buckling after installation.

Floating vs. glue-down

For most residential click-lock LVP installations, the planks are floated over the subfloor with a small expansion gap around the perimeter. This gap, typically 1/4 inch, is covered by baseboards and allows the floor to expand and contract with temperature changes. Skipping the expansion gap is one of the most common reasons floating floors buckle.

For a full walkthrough of the installation process, see our vinyl plank installation guide.

When to hire a pro

Even though click-lock LVP is marketed as DIY-friendly, a poorly prepared subfloor or incorrectly executed layout can void the manufacturer warranty and cause premature failure. Hiring a flooring pro is the better choice if your subfloor needs levelling, if you are dealing with a large open-concept space, or if you want the installation covered by a labour warranty. A pro will also handle transitions, stair nosing, and any obstacles like cabinetry toe kicks that take experience to do cleanly.

Get matched with LVP installation pros on HomeStars

How Much Does LVP Flooring Cost?

LVP material costs in Canada typically range from $3 to $7 per square foot, depending on wear layer thickness, core type, and brand. Budget products at the lower end of that range tend to have thinner wear layers (around 6 mil) and are better suited to low-traffic areas. Mid-range products ($4 to $5 per square foot) cover most residential applications well. Premium products with 20 mil wear layers and attached underlayment run higher.

When professional installation is added, total installed cost typically runs $7 to $8 per square foot for a standard floating floor. That figure can increase with subfloor levelling, removal of existing flooring, or complex room layouts.

For a full breakdown of labour rates, material options, and what affects the total project cost, see our guide to vinyl flooring installation costs. For context on how LVP costs compare to other flooring options, see our flooring cost guide.

Vinyl Plank Flooring Maintenance and Cleaning

LVP is low-maintenance compared to hardwood or tile, but a few habits keep it looking good and extend the wear layer's lifespan.

Daily and weekly cleaning

Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove grit and debris. Fine particles act like sandpaper underfoot and are the most common cause of surface scratches on vinyl plank flooring. Use a vacuum without a beater bar, or set the beater bar to its highest position to avoid scuffing the surface.

For mopping, use a damp mop rather than a wet one. Standing water at the seams can work its way into the locking joints over time, particularly on older installations or in areas with heavy foot traffic. A pH-neutral cleaner designed for vinyl or LVP floors is the safest choice; avoid anything with wax, oil, or abrasive particles.

Protecting the surface

• Furniture pads: place felt pads under all chair and table legs; hard feet concentrate weight on a small area and leave permanent dents in the wear layer
• Entry mats: a mat at each exterior door catches grit before it reaches the floor
• Avoid rubber-backed mats: some rubber compounds react with vinyl over time and cause permanent staining

What to avoid

• Steam mops: the heat and moisture can cause planks to warp or separate at the joints
• Wax or polish products: they leave a residue that dulls the surface and is difficult to remove
• Acetone or solvent-based cleaners: these can damage the wear layer permanently

Find a Flooring Pro on HomeStars

Once you have decided on LVP as your flooring type, finding a pro who can assess your subfloor, recommend the right product for your space, and install it correctly is the next step. HomeStars connects you with flooring contractors near you so you can read reviews from other homeowners, compare approaches, and make an informed decision before any work starts. Post your project for free, describe what you are planning, and let interested pros come to you with their assessments and quotes.

Find LVP flooring pros near you on HomeStars

FAQs: Your Questions About LVP Flooring Answered

Is LVP flooring the same as vinyl plank flooring?

Not exactly. Vinyl plank is the broader category, while LVP (luxury vinyl plank) refers specifically to the premium, rigid-core, click-lock variety that has become the market standard. Older vinyl plank products, including thin peel-and-stick tiles and flexible sheet vinyl, are also technically vinyl flooring but do not share the same construction or performance characteristics as modern LVP. When people refer to vinyl plank flooring today, they are almost always talking about LVP.

Does LVP flooring add value to a home?

LVP does not carry the same resale premium as hardwood, but it is generally viewed positively by buyers in the current market, particularly when it replaces dated carpet or worn vinyl in kitchens, bathrooms, or basements. Its waterproof properties and low-maintenance nature are practical selling points. If your goal is to maximize resale value in a higher-end home, solid or engineered hardwood may still be the stronger choice for main living areas.

Can LVP flooring be installed over existing flooring?

In many cases, yes. LVP can be floated over a single layer of existing vinyl sheet, tile, or hardwood, provided the existing surface is in good condition, firmly adhered, and flat within the required tolerance. Installing over multiple layers of existing flooring is generally not recommended because it raises the floor height too much and can create instability. A flooring pro can assess whether your existing subfloor and surface are suitable before installation begins. You can find flooring pros near you through HomeStars.

Does LVP work with underfloor heating?

Most rigid-core LVP products are compatible with low-temperature radiant underfloor heating systems, but there are restrictions. The floor surface temperature should generally not exceed 27°C (80°F), and the product must be listed by the manufacturer as compatible with in-floor heating. WPC-core products are sometimes less suitable because the foam layer acts as an insulator and can trap heat. Always confirm compatibility with both the flooring manufacturer and your heating system installer before proceeding. HomeStars connects you with flooring pros who can advise on product selection for heated floor installations.